Retinol Is “Truly a Multipurpose Ingredient”—Here’s How to Use It

Every so often, a skincare ingredient will garner so much
buzz that it leaves everyone scrambling to get in on the
action, even before becoming properly educated about it. For quite
some time now, retinol has definitely been that ingredient—and
for good reason. Dermatologists
and skin experts so consistently call out this highly effective
active for its anti-aging,
skin-rescuing benefits that immediately heading to Sephora to get
your hands on a new bottle may feel like the only logical step.

Here at Who What Wear HQ, you’d be hard-pressed to find an
editor not already on the retinol train. What is it, though? The
widespread adoration is all well and good, but we thought it
important to take a step back and truly break down exactly what
this supposed miracle ingredient is, how it works, and how to
determine if its a good addition to your skincare regimen.

With the help of top skin experts in the game, we’ve put
together this go-to guide to retinol. Read to get informed and then
shop the pro-approved product picks.

“Retinoids are the family of ingredients that include both
retinol and Retin-A,” says Ronald Moy, MD, FAAD, of Moy
Fincher Chipps. It’s worth noting that the brand name Retin-A
is commonly used when referencing the prescription-strength topical
medication called tretinoin. “Retinoids are all forms of vitamin A,
where retinol is a gentler version of vitamin A and Retin-A is the
strongest form of vitamin A,” Moy says. “Think of retinoids as the
umbrella in which retinol and Retin-A are under.”

“The main function of retinol is cell turnover and growth,
resulting in many benefits ranging from a more even and clear tone
to the skin to diminished fine lines and wrinkles,” says skin
expert Joie Tavernise, esthetician and founder of JTV
Clinical Skin Care in New York City. “When retinol is applied
topically, it breaks down into retinoic acid. This acid directly
impacts the cell structure in the skin, which stimulates collagen
production. In turn, increased collagen reduces the appearance of
wrinkles, helps fade dark spots, and evens out tone and
texture.”

Moy also says that retinol is not only safe but beneficial for
those with darker skin tones. “There are a few common skin concerns
that darker skin tones experience like hyperpigmentation, skin
texture, and uneven skin tone. Retinol is a great ingredient to
combat these issues and works well for those with higher melanin
levels. As always, if using retinol, it’s important to wear a
broad-spectrum SPF,” he instructs.

According to Tavernise, “The most common effect we see from the
use of retinol is dry skin. This can be managed by using a
hydrating moisturizer to balance out any dehydration and restore a
healthy equilibrium to the skin.”

Moy adds that photosensitivity is also something to be cautious
of. “Direct sunlight breaks retinol down and can irritate the skin
if exposed for too long to strong sunlight, so it’s best to protect
the skin if you’re a retinol user,” he says. “Retinoids do cause
the skin to become more sensitive to sunlight, so your skin may
react if the proper protocol isn’t ensured, like wearing a
broad-spectrum SPF every day. For the best results, use at night
and let your skin really absorb the effects while you sleep.”

“The early signs of aging tend to show up in our 20s, so this is
a good time to incorporate a retinol product into your routine.
If you didn’t start in your 20s, it’s never too late to find
the right retinol product for your individual skin,” explains
Tavernise. Moy points out that in some cases, doctors may suggest
starting a bit younger to treat conditions like severe acne in
teenagers.

Of course, consulting your trusted board-certified
dermatologist is always the safest way to determine whether it
might be the right time to begin incorporating retinol into your
skincare regimen.

“A few active ingredients that can complement retinol are DNA
repair enzymes known for treating and reversing skin damage caused
by the sun, environment, and blue screens,” says Moy. Tavernise
loves a cocktail of retinol, vitamin C, and SPF for glowing skin.
“To round out your skincare regimen, a vitamin C serum with
antioxidants and SPF should be applied in the morning to repair the
skin while also helping correct past signs of aging,” she
advises.

“Definitely avoid benzoyl peroxide, as it is extremely
irritating while using retinol,” Tavernise cautions. “Other
exfoliants, such as scrubs and acids should be avoided as well.”
Moy agrees, adding that both physical and chemical exfoliants
could be a recipe for disaster while using retinol. “Exfoliating
ingredients such as AHAs like salicylic acid and glycolic acid
could lead to dryness and skin irritation. Also, avoid physical
exfoliants—anything that has a bead-like texture.”

“It’s
infused with hemp-derived cannabis oil to help calm skin while 1.2%
clean retinol works to reverse aging. It’s a great product for a
retinol beginner but provides effective results,” says Moy.

“Retinol infused
skincare is an accessible option for all, with many different
variations that work for different skin types and ages.
Prescription formulas are very helpful to some, but I think that
overall the market is filled with very effective products ranging
from mass to luxury with something for everyone,” explains
Tavernise.

Moy
points out that serums like this one by Shani Darden are perfect
for resurfacing the skin. “This is a gentle treatment that feels
soft on the skin and helps skin cell turnover over time,” he
explains.